Had a great word from God today at church. Was delivered by Jason Ong. Awesome man of God Jason is! Here's the notes I took,
Title: Fear Factor
Psalm 46
1 God is our refuge and strength, an ever-present help in trouble.
2 Therefore we will not fear, though the earth give way and the mountains fall into the heart of the sea,
3 though its waters roar and foam and the mountains quake with their surging. Selah
4 There is a river whose streams make glad the city of God, the holy place where the Most High dwells.
5 God is within her, she will not fall; God will help her at break of day.
6 Nations are in uproar, kingdoms fall; he lifts his voice, the earth melts.
7 The LORD Almighty is with us; the God of Jacob is our fortress. Selah
8 Come and see the works of the LORD, the desolations he has brought on the earth.
9 He makes wars cease to the ends of the earth; he breaks the bow and shatters the spear, he burns the shields with fire.
10 "Be still, and know that I am God; I will be exalted among the nations, I will be exalted in the earth."
11 The LORD Almighty is with us; the God of Jacob is our fortress. Selah
What is Fear - emotional response caused by imminent or forthcoming danger
What do you fear?
- people fear sicknesses, terrorism, failure, making mistakes, mans opinion, losing face
- sometimes fear spurs us on and can be good ie. fear of failure causing us to study
- but there are negative aspects
Conditions: agarophobia, panic attacks, post-traumatic stress
disorder, paranoia, schizophrenia, hypochondriac
Negative aspects/effects of fear
- BURDEN: takes your energy away. The fear that causes anxiety. Weighs you down.
- BLINDS: stops you seeing reality as it is, can't see the way out. Fear makes you give up just before you reach the goal. Fear warps your perception. Don't see things the way they actually are - tend to exaggerate things. Many times the fear before an event is worse than the even itself (ie. fear before an interview, all the worries, anxiety is worse than the actual interview itself)
- BINDS: oppresses you, stops you become who you are, breaks your resolve.
As a follower of Christ you do not have to fear.
Biblical truths to set you free from fear:
John 16:33: "I have told you these things, so that in me you may have peace. In this world you will have trouble. But take heart! I have overcome the world."
- Everyone will face trouble, will face fear.
Key to freedom from fear:
Psalm 46:10 - "be still and know that I am God"
- when you truly understand that he is God, you won't fear
- have to know God
3 things to know when you face fear
1. Be still and know that God is in control
Psalm 139:16 - "your eyes saw my unformed body. All the days ordained for me were written in your book before one of them came to be."
Romans 8:28 - "And we know that in all things God works for the good of those who love him,who have been called according to his purpose."
Everyday when you wake up, know that God is in control
"the Lord gives and takes away, blessed be the name of the Lord"
2. Be still and know that God is with you
- Daniel 3 - Story of Shadrach, Meshach and Abednego being thrown into the furnace
- King Nebuchadnezzar saw 4 people in the fire
- God is with you in the fire
- 2nd Kings 6 - Elisha - was able to predict where the enemies were. Armies came surrounded them, the servant was fearful.
2 Kings 6: "15 When the servant of the man of God got up and went out early the next morning, an army with horses and chariots had surrounded the city. "Oh, my lord, what shall we do?" the servant asked. 16 "Don't be afraid," the prophet answered. "Those who are with us are more than those who are with them." 17 And Elisha prayed, "O LORD, open his eyes so he may see." Then the LORD opened the servant's eyes, and he looked and saw the hills full of horses and chariots of fire all around Elisha."
- Elisha prayed, open the eyes of my servant
- Gods army was protecting Elisha and bid servant
- Even if your eyes can't see, God is with you
- Hebrewes 13:5 - Never will I leave you, never will I forsake you
- Psalm 23:4 - "shadow of death"... It is a reflection, it can't harm you
- God has conquered death, the devil can only play these shadow games
- Psalm 121 - 1 I lift up my eyes to the hills— where does my help come from? 2 My help comes from the LORD, the Maker of heaven and earth.
- Isaiah 43:2 - 2 When you pass through the waters, I will be with you; and when you pass through the rivers, they will not sweep over you. When you walk through the fire, you will not be burned; the flames will not set you ablaze.
3. Be still and know that God will provide
Matthew 6:25-34 - "do not worry.."
Conclusions
1 Corinthians 10:13 - "13No temptation has seized you except what is common to man. And God is faithful; he will not let you be tempted beyond what you can bear. But when you are tempted, he will also provide a way out so that you can stand up under it."
- He will not let you be tempted beyond what you can bear
- The meaning of the word temptation in greek is the same word as trials
- Temptations are from the devil, trials are from God
- God will always give you the abilty to conquer your trials, but not beyond what you can bear... He will always provide a way out if you cannot bear it any longer.
____________________________________________________
When there are things that are causing you to fear, whether it be the future, finance, death, sicknesses, relationships, uncertainty... Be still and know He is God... !!
Do not let fear bind you from reaching the potential that God has called you to be.... so many of us are bound by fear these days. Fear of rejection, of hurt, of losing face, of being in debt... fear of failures...... God is GOD... He is greater and He will not leave you or forsake you. Trouble WILL come... but take heart - put your hope in Jesus Christ, who overcame it all!
aLio
D.I.Y Pedalboard Tutorial for dummies...!
Heya guys!!
So the past few weeks we've been preparing for an event our church is holding and so thought I'd revamp my guitar effects setup! What I wanted to do required a larger board and after looking around I decided to make my own. Was it cost effective? I dunno...but it was fun nonetheless!
So following are the steps I took to make it - I'm really bad at this stuff so bear with me... lol
Firstly: gathering the materials!
I went off to Bunnings and bought everything I needed.
Firstly determine the size you want. I needed a usable space of 92cm x 42cm. I added a couple of cm's to allow for the aluminium edges and so I needed 94cm x 44cm.
So first off (prices in AUD):
1. Plywood - I used this, it's pretty strong and cheap. I ended up getting a 120cm x 45cm piece. Got that cut to 94cmx45cm and this would form the base.
Cost: $14.98.
2. Aluminium edges - They have a right angle to em. Just get enough to cover the edges. I got 3 x 1M alumnium mouldings that were 12mm wide and long.
Cost: 3x $2.83 = $8.49
3. Sandpaper - just bought some. I don't really know the proper way to sand wood haha, so I quickly read up and got some 120grit, 240grit and a 600grit sheets of sandpaper. I dunno =)
Cost: 3x $1.80 = $5.40
4. Spray paint: got black, since I wanted black
Cost: $7.76
5. Primer: Need to this to prepare the wood for painting... I think haha. Well the guy said I needed it so yeh. I think I paid too much for it, but oh well..
Cost: $16.66
6. Handles for the sides: makes it look very much like the Timon Klein/Teletronix pedalboards - very similar to the ones all the Hillsong guitarists use. I liked it, so I'm copying it.
Cost: 2x $3.35 = $6.70
7. Rubber feet: Anything you can find that look like rubber feet, for like chairs, furniture etc. will do the job. I got 8 cause of the size of my board, just get how many you think you'll need
Cost: 2x $4.10 (set of 4) = $8.20
8. Carpet: This is so I can velcro all the pedals to the board. The velcro sticks to it quite well, though I'm worried at how many t imes I can put on and take off pedals cause it seems that after a certain while it might lose it's strength. In anyway cause, I got 1 sq. metre and it's working atm!
Cost: $18.78
TOTAL: $86.97
I also bought a Mitre Box (which was meant to help me cut straight angles) and a handle for the sandpaper. Also bought some glue, I bought the Selley's All-fix - pretty versatile adhesive so thought that should do the job!
So all up cost me a bit more (prob extra $50 or so) since I didn't have those tools to start with, but for most of you, it'll cost about AUD$90! Not bad I guess....
OTHER TOOLS NEEDED:
1. Drill
2. Measuring tape
3. Marker pen or pencil
4. Stanley knife
STEP 1: SANDING
First off need to sand down the piece of wood to make it really smooth.
Start with the really rough 120grit paper, then move up to the higher grit, then again to an even finer one. The aim is to make it really really smooth and get rid of any inconsistencies. I didn't sand mine enough so it's a bit rough, but sand until you think it's smooth.
STEP 2: USING PRIMER
Like I said before, the aim of using primer is to prepare the wood for paining so get the primer and spray a few coats on the whole piece. You might go through 1 or 2 cans. I used 1, but I'm cheap =) Follow instructions on the can, I had to wait about 30mins or so in between each coat and about 1hr before it was ready for spray painting. It's best to do thin coatings as opposed to one thick coat so apply it sparingly but enough to cover the wood for each coat.
STEP 3: SPRAY PAINT!
Time for spray painting - do as many coats as you can, about 3-4 is ideal, but lol, i'm cheap. I did 2 coats on one side and 1 on the other since the can ran out. Oh well =) I did 2 coats on the side that's exposed (the bottom) and 1 coat on the top to hide any edges that may not be covered by the carpet etc. Again follow instructions on the can, I waited about 1hr in between each coat and then left it overnight to dry. If you weren't going to use carpet to cover it, I'd probably suggest to do at least 4 coats (needing a few more spray bottles).
STEP 4: ALUMINIUM EDGES
You can do this bit whenever, but I did it the next day after the paint dried.
I really hated this bit. Took too much effort and was annoying. Basically the aluminium edges are going to line the border of the board. To make it look neat and tidy, you have to cut off a bit of the edge of the aluminium mould at a 45 degree angle. See the picture or look at other pedalboards by Timon Klein.
I bought a Mitre Box because another article I read said that it was the best for cutting straight 45 degree angles....looks like this:
i tried it...... couldn't do it. The saw that came with it was crap and I couldn't find anything around the house that could do it ... (was bout to get the chainsaw.... lol). So I drew a 45 degree line (using the mitrebox as a guide) and just cut it with scissors (like those really sharp ones used to cut drainage pipes) lol... not ideal but turned out ok!
Do it for all four sides, paying attention to which way you have to do the 45 degree cut. Make sure after you've cut it that you sand the edges down. I used the 600 grit sandpaper to do this. This really smooths it out and if it's a tiny bit too big, you can sand it down a little to make it fit. It also removes point edges that could potentially hurt someone.
After you've done that, use the Selley's All-Fix or similar and glue it on to the board. With the all-fix, it was really good as I could just use water to take off any spillage on the board as it's water soluble.
STEP 5: CARPETING
This is pretty easy, just cut the carpet to the size you need. I used the actual board with the aluminium to measure the size of the carpet I needed. Marked it, then use a stanley knife to cut it. Use some kind of straight edge like another plank of wood, or something to help cut a nice straight line.
After you've done that, glue it on using the All-Fix again and now everything is glued on!
Follow the instructions on the package to see how long you have to wait. I waited a couple of hours before I started the next step (and waited about 6-7hrs before starting the handles).
STEP 6: RUBBER FEET
Now flip the board over to the bottom and mark where you want the rubber feet to go. Then it's as simple as using the drill to drill a small hole to act as a guide (pilot hole) using I think around 1/16th to 5/32nd size drill.
Then just screw the rubber feet in. I did 4 along the bottom and 4 along the top and it's working alright at the moment.
STEP 7:HANDLES
For this one, it's similar to the rubber feet.
First off, measure the edge and try and position the handle as closest to the centre as possible. Measure the handle and halfway of the handle should line up with the midway point of the board's edge. Use a marker pen and mark these spots in. Try and be as exact as you can. Don't want to widen the hole bigger than u need it.
This time use a wider drill, wide enough so the screw can actually go through the hole.
Once that's done, put the screw in and screw it in to the handle! Now the ones I bought (because I'm such a noob), the screw was too long so I just cut it to the size I wanted (a REAL pain though!!!)
FINISHED!! Now you have your own custom made pedalboard that could rival the pro-made ones!
Next post: update on gear aquisitions ^^ (once some new pedals arrive...)
So the past few weeks we've been preparing for an event our church is holding and so thought I'd revamp my guitar effects setup! What I wanted to do required a larger board and after looking around I decided to make my own. Was it cost effective? I dunno...but it was fun nonetheless!
So following are the steps I took to make it - I'm really bad at this stuff so bear with me... lol
Firstly: gathering the materials!
I went off to Bunnings and bought everything I needed.
Firstly determine the size you want. I needed a usable space of 92cm x 42cm. I added a couple of cm's to allow for the aluminium edges and so I needed 94cm x 44cm.
So first off (prices in AUD):
1. Plywood - I used this, it's pretty strong and cheap. I ended up getting a 120cm x 45cm piece. Got that cut to 94cmx45cm and this would form the base.
Cost: $14.98.
2. Aluminium edges - They have a right angle to em. Just get enough to cover the edges. I got 3 x 1M alumnium mouldings that were 12mm wide and long.
Cost: 3x $2.83 = $8.49
3. Sandpaper - just bought some. I don't really know the proper way to sand wood haha, so I quickly read up and got some 120grit, 240grit and a 600grit sheets of sandpaper. I dunno =)
Cost: 3x $1.80 = $5.40
4. Spray paint: got black, since I wanted black
Cost: $7.76
5. Primer: Need to this to prepare the wood for painting... I think haha. Well the guy said I needed it so yeh. I think I paid too much for it, but oh well..
Cost: $16.66
6. Handles for the sides: makes it look very much like the Timon Klein/Teletronix pedalboards - very similar to the ones all the Hillsong guitarists use. I liked it, so I'm copying it.
Cost: 2x $3.35 = $6.70
7. Rubber feet: Anything you can find that look like rubber feet, for like chairs, furniture etc. will do the job. I got 8 cause of the size of my board, just get how many you think you'll need
Cost: 2x $4.10 (set of 4) = $8.20
8. Carpet: This is so I can velcro all the pedals to the board. The velcro sticks to it quite well, though I'm worried at how many t imes I can put on and take off pedals cause it seems that after a certain while it might lose it's strength. In anyway cause, I got 1 sq. metre and it's working atm!
Cost: $18.78
TOTAL: $86.97
I also bought a Mitre Box (which was meant to help me cut straight angles) and a handle for the sandpaper. Also bought some glue, I bought the Selley's All-fix - pretty versatile adhesive so thought that should do the job!
So all up cost me a bit more (prob extra $50 or so) since I didn't have those tools to start with, but for most of you, it'll cost about AUD$90! Not bad I guess....
OTHER TOOLS NEEDED:
1. Drill
2. Measuring tape
3. Marker pen or pencil
4. Stanley knife
STEP 1: SANDING
Start with the really rough 120grit paper, then move up to the higher grit, then again to an even finer one. The aim is to make it really really smooth and get rid of any inconsistencies. I didn't sand mine enough so it's a bit rough, but sand until you think it's smooth.
STEP 2: USING PRIMER
Like I said before, the aim of using primer is to prepare the wood for paining so get the primer and spray a few coats on the whole piece. You might go through 1 or 2 cans. I used 1, but I'm cheap =) Follow instructions on the can, I had to wait about 30mins or so in between each coat and about 1hr before it was ready for spray painting. It's best to do thin coatings as opposed to one thick coat so apply it sparingly but enough to cover the wood for each coat.
STEP 3: SPRAY PAINT!
Time for spray painting - do as many coats as you can, about 3-4 is ideal, but lol, i'm cheap. I did 2 coats on one side and 1 on the other since the can ran out. Oh well =) I did 2 coats on the side that's exposed (the bottom) and 1 coat on the top to hide any edges that may not be covered by the carpet etc. Again follow instructions on the can, I waited about 1hr in between each coat and then left it overnight to dry. If you weren't going to use carpet to cover it, I'd probably suggest to do at least 4 coats (needing a few more spray bottles).
STEP 4: ALUMINIUM EDGES
You can do this bit whenever, but I did it the next day after the paint dried.
I really hated this bit. Took too much effort and was annoying. Basically the aluminium edges are going to line the border of the board. To make it look neat and tidy, you have to cut off a bit of the edge of the aluminium mould at a 45 degree angle. See the picture or look at other pedalboards by Timon Klein.
I bought a Mitre Box because another article I read said that it was the best for cutting straight 45 degree angles....looks like this:
i tried it...... couldn't do it. The saw that came with it was crap and I couldn't find anything around the house that could do it ... (was bout to get the chainsaw.... lol). So I drew a 45 degree line (using the mitrebox as a guide) and just cut it with scissors (like those really sharp ones used to cut drainage pipes) lol... not ideal but turned out ok!
Do it for all four sides, paying attention to which way you have to do the 45 degree cut. Make sure after you've cut it that you sand the edges down. I used the 600 grit sandpaper to do this. This really smooths it out and if it's a tiny bit too big, you can sand it down a little to make it fit. It also removes point edges that could potentially hurt someone.
After you've done that, use the Selley's All-Fix or similar and glue it on to the board. With the all-fix, it was really good as I could just use water to take off any spillage on the board as it's water soluble.
STEP 5: CARPETING
This is pretty easy, just cut the carpet to the size you need. I used the actual board with the aluminium to measure the size of the carpet I needed. Marked it, then use a stanley knife to cut it. Use some kind of straight edge like another plank of wood, or something to help cut a nice straight line.
After you've done that, glue it on using the All-Fix again and now everything is glued on!
Follow the instructions on the package to see how long you have to wait. I waited a couple of hours before I started the next step (and waited about 6-7hrs before starting the handles).
STEP 6: RUBBER FEET
Now flip the board over to the bottom and mark where you want the rubber feet to go. Then it's as simple as using the drill to drill a small hole to act as a guide (pilot hole) using I think around 1/16th to 5/32nd size drill.
Then just screw the rubber feet in. I did 4 along the bottom and 4 along the top and it's working alright at the moment.
STEP 7:HANDLES
For this one, it's similar to the rubber feet.
First off, measure the edge and try and position the handle as closest to the centre as possible. Measure the handle and halfway of the handle should line up with the midway point of the board's edge. Use a marker pen and mark these spots in. Try and be as exact as you can. Don't want to widen the hole bigger than u need it.
This time use a wider drill, wide enough so the screw can actually go through the hole.
Once that's done, put the screw in and screw it in to the handle! Now the ones I bought (because I'm such a noob), the screw was too long so I just cut it to the size I wanted (a REAL pain though!!!)
FINISHED!! Now you have your own custom made pedalboard that could rival the pro-made ones!
Next post: update on gear aquisitions ^^ (once some new pedals arrive...)
